Our story

How the sole meets the shoe

Four sole constructions, cut open on our Balmoral Oxford. Choose one and press play to watch it come together.

Section A-A · Forefoot

Goodyear welted, in section: the welt is stitched to the upper and the insole, and the sole to the welt, so a new sole never touches the upper.

Goodyear welted

A welt between two seams, so the sole can be replaced.

The welt is a leather strip sewn to the upper and an insole rib, and the sole is stitched to the welt. The two seams are separate, so the sole can be replaced many times without disturbing the upper. Inside, the cork bed moulds to your foot. In return, the shoe is heavier, takes longer to break in and has a wider sole edge.

How it compares

Can be resoled

Keeps water out

Comfort when new

Slim and light

Hours of hand work

How to spot it

A ledge of leather runs around the shoe with a stitch line on top. There are no stitches inside the shoe.

Best for

Oxfords, derbies and boots you mean to wear for ten years or more.

The four side by side

Construction	Sole held by	Resoling	Break-in	Sole edge
Cemented	Adhesive only	Yes, a few times	Almost none	Thin, close to the upper
Blake stitched	One seam through from inside	Yes, with a Blake machine. We resole our own pairs.	Short	Slimmest of the four
Goodyear welted	A welt and two machine seams	Yes, many times. We resole our own pairs.	Longer	Visible welt ledge
Hand-welted	A hand-sewn welt and holdfast	Yes, many times. We resole our own pairs.	Moderate	Welt ledge, finely shaped

The shoe is modelled on the MANGO MOJITO Balmoral Oxford: Soft Chisel toe, cap toe, closed lacing and the Balmoral line running parallel to the sole. Proportions are simplified and not to scale. The ratings compare the four constructions with each other. How long a pair lasts also depends on its leather and on the shoemaker. Our Balmoral is made in three of these: Blake stitched, Goodyear welted and hand-welted. Cemented is shown on it for comparison.